Do you have any questions about our products? Here is a list of frequently asked questions that may help you find an answer. 


Laws require that gun manufacturers sell only to Firearms Licensed Dealers.
Browning only sells its firearms to authorized Browning Dealers.
To locate a dealer near you simply click here.

Browning offers extra barrels for the following shotguns:
Maxus, A5, Fusion and Phoenix 12 ga. and 20 ga. Shotguns. 

We do not offer extra barrels or make extra barrels for the over and under as the cost is prohibitive.

For those guns we do offer barrels for, see your local Browning Dealer Partner to order one.

All current Browning shotguns with the Invector or Invector-Plus choke tube system are fully steel shot compatible with current factory loads. However, there are limitations to the compatibility of many older Browning shotguns with conventionally choked barrels. In certain models, shooting steel shot may cause a slight "ringe bulge" just inches behind the muzzle. The damage to your gun is purely cosmetic, but the "bulge" can be a factor in resale, especially with collector-grade shotguns.

Accordingly, our recommendations concerning the use of steel shot in Browning shotguns is as follows:

All Browning shotguns with the Invector choke or Invector-Plus tube systems, However, we do not recommend the use of Invector full or extra full chokes with steel shot. They pattern too tightly, and sometimes result in a "blown" pattern.

The B-2000 and B-80 shotguns with conventional chokes (Non-Invector). 

The Belgian-made Auto 5, Superposed, and other Belgian Over/Under models, Double Automatic, Auto 5 and all other models not listed in category 1 or 2. Note: Belgian Auto 5 barrels are interchangeable with the new Invector barrels which are made in Japan. With this new Invector barrel installed on the Belgian-made Auto 5 receiver, steel shot loads can be used.


In not all, but a number of instances a very slight ring will develop about 1 1/2" to 3" rearward of the muzzle. This ring is about .005 of an inch above the plane of the barrel, completely encircling the barrel. From our tests we could determine no adverse effect on pattern or shot velocity because of this ring. Our conclusion is that the most significant objection, the slight ring, is entirely cosmetic. This "ring" effect does not affect the function or safety of the firearm.


Nearly all Browning firearms manufactured after 1975 have two letters in the serial number. The two letters indicate the year of manufacture: M=0, Z=1, Y=2, X=3, W=4, V=5, T=6, R=7, P=8, N=9.


Obviously, we have no control over the ammunition companies and the loads they will produce in the future. So, if in doubt, please check with your Browning dealer or the ammunition company before using new loads in your shotgun.


However, there are certain features on the different types of shotguns that benefit each of these sports.

Please see our current catalogue for explanations of all these special features.

It is more practical to use a "field or hunting" gun for target shooting than it is to use a specific "target gun" for hunting purposes.

Glossary of Terms

22 Long Rifle
The caliber of cartridge used in the A-Bolt 22 (except Magnum models).

22 Magnum
A rimfire caliber that utilizes a longer cartridge than the standard 22 Long Rifle cartridge. The A-Bolt 22 rimfire is available in 22 Magnum. Long Rifle and 22 Magnum cartridges are NOT interchangeable.

22 Rifle
A rifle designed to shoot a small .22 caliber bullet. This is the kind of rifle used for practice shooting and small animals. The 22 Semi-Auto is a "22 rifle."

Bolt Handle
The handle on the bolt that is used to unlock the bolt (by lifting upward) and pulling the bolt rearward (to eject a cartridge) and close the bolt (and load a cartridge).

This is the cylindrical part of a rifle that is inserted into the back of a receiver. It has a handle with a knob on it. The bolt opens and closes by lifting the handle then pulling rearward. It is the means by which a cartridge is loaded or ejected from the chamber of a rifle.

A patented device that is built onto the end of some Browning A-Bolt Centerfire rifles and BAR Mark II rifles. Special adjustments to the BOSS can make a bullet more accurate. BOSS means Ballistic Optimizing Shooting System.

A numerical name usually combined with a word name that describes the cartridge/bullet size a rifle is made to shoot. There are many calibers available for our centerfire rifles and rimfire rifles. They are NOT interchangeable. Bullet diameters vary from caliber to caliber as do the shape and size of the brass cartridge. The diameter of a bullet is measured in either decimals (of an inch) or millimeters. Either measurement refers to the caliber of a bullet.

A single round of ammunition. The brass casing that holds the powder and bullet and includes a primer. Once a cartridge is fired it is "empty" or "fired." When it still contains the powder and is fitted with a bullet and primer it is a "loaded" cartridge. The neck is the opening where the bullet goes in. The base is the bottom end of the cartridge.

Centerfire Rifles
These rifles are designed to take cartridges that have a removable primer in the center of the base of the cartridge.

The place where a loaded cartridge is inserted into the back end of a barrel. The shape of the chamber matches the shape of the cartridge.

Fully Loaded
When all cartidges have been placed in the magazine and one is in the chamber.

Fully Unloaded
When all cartidges have been removed from the magazine as well as the chamber.

When a cartridge has been placed in the chamber of a rifle. Usually with the bolt closed.

Long Action
A receiver configuration made to handle a range of longer length cartridges in the centerfire rifle category.

Long Action Magnum
A receiver configuration made to handle a range of even longer centerfire cartridges than the "long actions." These special rifles handle extremely powerful cartridges designated as "Magnum" calibers.

A container located on the firearm for holding several cartridges. A spring mechanism in the magazine (follower) positions a new cartridge for loading into the chamber.

Model Name
This is the total name of a firearm.

Off Safe
"Off Safe" is where the gun's safety system is turned off and the firearm is ready to fire.

On Safe
"On Safe" is where the gun's safety system is turned on and mechanically blocks the gun from firing. The safety is a mechanical device and can fail. It is no guarantee that the firearm might not actually accidentally fire. Treat every firearm as if it were loaded and ready to fire.

Rimfire Rifle
These are rifles designed to take cartridges that have a built-in primer system, around the edge of the base of the cartridge. To fire the cartridge, the firing pin strikes the edge of the cartridge base. Most rimfire rifles shoot 22 caliber cartridges. The cartridge is often referred to as 22 caliber rimfire."

A device for locking the trigger and/or firing pin of a rifle for preventing the rifle from firing. This is a mechanical device and can fail. Always keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Scope Base & Rings
The combination of a metal mounting platform and ringed holders that secure a rifle or shotgun telescopic sight onto the receiver or barrel.

Serial Number
This is the identifying number found on every gun made. See your owner's manual for the location of your firearm's serial number.

Sling and Sling Swivels
Special metal posts are screwed into the stock near the butt and on the fore-end. Between these a sling is attached using sling swivels to be used for carrying a rifle over the shoulder.

The portion of the rifle that serves as the place for holding with the hands. The butt stock of the stock goes against the shoulder. The fore-end is forward and supported by one of the shooter's hands.

When no cartridge is in the chamber of a rifle. Always inspect the chamber of any firearm you pick up or is handed to you. Check both the magazine and the chamber visually to determine that they contain no ammunition.

On any firearm that you hand to someone, or that someone hands to you, first, make certain that it is unloaded! Depending on the kind of firearm, open the action, check the bore, the magazine, cylinder, etc., to determine that there are no shells in the chamber, magazine, bore or cylinder.

Make certain that there is no ammunition in the area or near the firearm. Always keep it secured away from your firearms. Ammunition is not needed to clean your firearm. Open the breech, cylinder or receiver or remove the barrel if possible. Run several patches down the barrel, soaked with bore cleaner, or use the new "Bore Snake" or Gun Weasel" type cleaners. If the bore is exceedingly dirty, use a brass bore brush to remove heavy fouling. Make certain your cleaning supplies fit the gauge or caliber of firearm you are cleaning.

Clean the barrel until the patches come out clean. Use a toothbrush, cotton swabs or other cleaning tools to remove debris from the receiver and other hard to clean areas. Flush with a good gun solvent or gun scrubber to remove powder fouling and small particles. Compressed air is good if available to blow out the receiver and dry the firearm, caution being used not to dislodge any small parts. Make certain the entire firearm is as clean as you can possibly get it without removing difficult parts. Leave that to a competent gunsmith.

Finally, use a good quality light gun oil to lightly coat the barrel and moving parts just slightly. Do not use an excessive amount of oil in the receiver or action area. Store your firearm away from all ammunition and in a safe, dry place, away from unwanted hands and inspect it periodically for rust/corrosion.


All current B425, B525, B625, Fusion, Maxus and A5 shotguns as well as the BAR centerfire rifle have chrome-lined chambers.

For information concerning Browning parts you can contact your Browning Dealer Partner

When ordering parts it is important that you list the code number, part name, caliber or gauge, model, grade and serial number.

Since Browning parts will not interchange with guns of other manufacturers, our parts sales and repairs are limited to our products.

The time varies with the model and options requested. Typically, the BAR rifle takes about 6 months, the B-25 shotgun from 12-24 months, and the Hi-Power pistol about 6-8 months.

One magazine is supplied with each Browning rimfire (22) pistol.
The 9mm Hi-Power, the new Pro-9 and the Pro-40 each have two magazines.

Extra magazines can be purchased through your local Browning Dealer.

Browning firearms have been traditionally made in locations world-wide. John M. Browning's first rifle, the Single Shot, was made in Ogden, Utah.

The next guns carrying the Browning name were made in Belgium. This continued for many decades. This was the result of John M. Browning's lasting relationship with Fabrique Nationale, in Herstal, Belgium. Most Browning guns were made in Belgium by F.N. until the mid '70s when some production was shifted to Miroku in Japan.

Today's Browning firearms are made in either Belgium, Portugal, Japan or in the United States. With some exceptions this is the breakout:

Browning Firearm Manufacturers

Hand-made superposed.

Belgium (assembled in Portugal)
Semi-Automatic 12 and 20 ga. shotguns, Hi-Power Pistol, FN Pistols, BAR , BAR ShortTrac / LongTrac and Maral.

B425, B525, B725, Light Weight and Lightning BLR, A-Bolt II, X-Bolt, T-Bolt, BL-22 Rifle, Auto-22 Rifle.

United States
Buck Mark Pistols and rifles, Pro-9, Pro-40 and the BDM Pistols

The tradition of making Browning sporting firearms overseas was started with John M. Browning's Auto-5 semi-automatic
shotgun design being produced by Fabrique Nationale in Belgium. Production on many of the models made in Belgium shifted to Miroku in Japan in the mid-70's due to significant cost increases in Belgium.

We at Browning consider ourselves a worldwide company. We are proud of our tradition of producing the world's best firearms at the worlds best factories - where ever they be.

It helps reduce the weight of the shotgun slightly, creates less wind resistance, and cools down the barrels.

To replace the battery, pull out the battery compartment under the electronic keypad.


  • Step 1: enter 22 * followed by the current code (or the default code: 123456 #)…. The keypad will beep 5 times
  • Step 2: Enter the new code and press # to finish. The keypad will beep 3 times IMPORTANT: THE CODE MUST BE AT LEAST 6 DIGITS
  • Step 3: Enter the new code again to confirm and press # to finish. The keypad will beep 3 times

The new code is operational and the safe can now be opened using the new combination.

The combination might have been changed, or the lock is in security mode. You might also have entered the wrong combination


  • Step 1: Make sure you are entering the correct combination and check that the safe handle is turned all the way anticlockwise. Make sure you haven't entered the wrong combination repeatedly: this will put the keypad into security mode.
  • Step 2: Read the locking instructions in the user manual.
  • Step 3: If the problem is still not resolved, contact your retailer.

To replace the battery, pull out the battery compartment under the electronic keypad.

Fit a new 9V battery once a year for best performance and before any service work on the safe.

The safe has an internal memory that can store your combination for several months even without a battery.

YES, you can have a "master" code that can perform all functions, and several user codes that can only open the safe.

See the user manual for detailed instructions.

The signal from the keypad isn't strong enough.

FIT A NEW BATTERY and make sure the compartment is put back properly

The lock has gone into "Security" mode, which will last 5 to 15 minutes.

Wait for 15 minutes (do not remove the battery) and then enter your code again. If the customer does not enter the correct code, refer to the user manual.

"Each safe includes a bottle of paint for touching up the paintwork. If not, the user manual includes a list of paint references".

You must use the bottle of paint provided to touch up chipped areas.

  1. Renew the battery in the keypad.
  2. The problem may be caused by a damaged wire between the lock and the keypad

If this method does not work, please contact your retailer.

The locking rods might not be lubricated properly.

You should lubricate the locking rods with conventional grease.

Spare parts may have loosened inside the safe door or the lock.

You should remove the door panel and check that the screws inside the door are properly tightened.

There are two door adjustment screws on the safe's external hinges.

"With the door open, use suitable tools to tighten or loosen each screw. See the user manual for an explanation".

Contact your Browning retailer for information on what to do next.

Customers must submit any claims about delivery to the carrier chosen by Browning, and if necessary record any reservations on the delivery note. Reservations not recorded on the delivery note will not be processed. Reservations stating "subject to unpackaging" cannot be accepted. Goods must be checked upon delivery.